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A river valley high in the Pirin Mountains of Bulgaria, excellent for mountain and forest birds, also botanically rich. Easily accessible from Bansko resort.
A river valley high in the Pirin (Пирин) Mountains between Vihren (2914 m) and Todorin Vrah (2746 m), this site holds an excellent range of alpine and subalpine birds. Above the 2,300-2,400 m tree line, the grassy slopes have Acvilă de munte, Stăncuță alpină, Corb, Brumăriță de stâncă, Fâsă de munte, Ciocârlie urecheată (the Balkan subspecies balcanica with extensive black on the throat, a likely future species split), Mierlă gulerată (alpine subspecies alpestris), Presură de munte and if you are lucky, Fluturaș de stâncă.
The mixed conifer forests are important for Alunar (look for them collecting seed from Macedonian Pine [Pinus peuce] cones), Forfecuță (on my visit, two different forms, one small-billed, feeding on Norway Spruce [Picea abies] cones, the other large-billed and closely resembling Forfecar, feeding on Balkan endemic Bosnian Pine [Pinus heldreichii] cones), Pițigoi de munte (the alpine subspecies montanus), Ghionoaie sură, Ciocănitoare neagră, Aușel cu cap galben, Aușel sprâncenat, Cojoaică de pădure and Pițigoi moțat. The alpine chalets hold breeding Drepnea palidă and Lăstun de stâncă, both of which feed widely over the valley, and Codroș de munte.
Lower down, the mixed woodland around Bansko holds Ciocănitoare de stejar (which can even be seen in parks and gardens in Bansko) and Cojoaică cu degete scurte. Also look for passage migrants like Frunzăriță galbenă and Pitulice sfârâitoare. Open areas have Cioară grivă, Cănăraș, and Presură bărboasă as well as Presură galbenă. Overhead, Rândunică roșcată feed together with more familiar Lăstun de casă and Rândunică. The river holds Pescărel negru and Codobatură de munte along its full length.
The mountain resort of Bansko (Банско) has an excellent range of accomodation and can be reached easily by train or bus from the capital Sofia. From Bansko, the best option is to hire a taxi to either the Banderitsa Chalet (Хижа Бъндерица, 14 km) or Vihren Chalet (Хижа Вихрен, 16 km), where you can also stay to explore the area, or walk along the many footpaths back to Bansko.
My visit was in autumn, after most summer visitors had left. If there are other good species to be seen here in spring or summer, please leave a note below and I will add the details!
As well as the many birds, the site holds occasional Brown Bear and Wolf. It is botanically very rich, including the famous 'Байкушевата мура' ('Baikushev's pine'), an ancient Черна мура / Bosnian Pine (Pinus heldreichii) estimated to be over 1,300 years old, one of the oldest trees in the whole of Europe.
Thanks to Stivi Musievski for tips on additional birds that can be found here.
Gallery photo below of Alunar in the Banderitsa Valley by Amkramer, creative commons cc-by-4.0 license, from iNaturalist via Wikimedia Commons.
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