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Calakmul is a fantastic Maya archaeological site, deep in the jungles of the greater Petén Basin region. Because of its remoteness, most of the time there are few visitors. Calakmul was one of the largest and most powerful ancient cities ever uncovered in the Maya lowlands. The site covers an area of approximately 2 square kilometres. Birding is great here, especially because on top of the highest temples you are at eye-level with the tree tops and can look over the canopy. Untouched rainforest in every direction, studded by the tops of half a dozen ancient pyramids, complete with Spider Monkeys. In the trails around the ruins, there is a lot of space between the trees, giving good visibility for ground birds. Get there as early in the morning as you can and hear the birds sing and the Howler Monkeys howl.
This is the best place in Mexico to see Ocellated Turkey, which is common and confiding here. In winter many North American warblers can be spotted. Also many species of flycatchers around. Antswarms host Gray-throated Chat, Swainson's Warbler and myriad woodcreepers. But many more other birds to observe. For example Rose-throated Tanager, Blue Bunting, Plain Chachalaca, Great Curassow, Black-headed Trogon, Gartered Trogon, Lesson's Motmot, Collared Aracari, Keel-billed Toucan, Olive-throated Parakeet and Yucatan Woodpecker.
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Calakmul is in the south of Yucatan, close to the Guatemalan border and really off the beaten track. You need a car to get there. You will drive almost two hours deep into the jungle of the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve National Park. It is a straight road of 60 km that leads to nothing but Calakmul. The beginning of that road is on the 186- road (see the star on the map). At the beginning it is a tarmac two-lane road. But it gets narrower until a bumpy road with deep holes remains, but if you drive slowly, the road is fine to drive with a normal car. Bring food and drink, especially plenty of water, as it can be hot. Bring mosquito repellent, long sleeve shirt, cap or hat, pants. And start as early as possible in the morning. The gate opens at 7:00 and from there it’s another 90 minutes drive to the ruins. Click on the P in the map for directions or coordinates.
Because it is such a long journey to get to Calakmul, it is a good idea to spend the night near the start of the road. Closest option is Hotel Puerta Calakmul (see link below) at the beginning of the road. You reach it by turning into the road to Calakmul and then a quick left on a 500m unpaved road. The nearest town is Xpujil, although from there it is still a 50 km drive to the entrance of the Calakmul road. But in Xpujil you do have some small supermarkets and a few restaurants and hotels.
You pay 3 entrance tickets (in pesos). For the park, for the nature reserve Calakmul Biosphere Reserve and for the ruins. Prices change often. You pay an entrance fee 3 times: immediately at the gate at the beginning of the road, halfway through at a second gate and then another entrance fee for the ruins. In total around 15 dollars pp.
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Photo Calakmul by PashiX, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Photo Ocellated Turkey by Dennis Jarvis, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0, via Wikimedia Commons