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One of the best places to watch birds in the region, with a Korhoen lek in spring, rare breeding raptors in summer, and Kraanvogel flocks in autumn.
Zhurvalinaya Rodina is a series of nature reserves in the very north of Moscow Oblast near Taldom. Areas most attractive in the ornithological aspect are named: Dubna swamplands, Apsarevo fields, Left Dubna nature reserve and Bat'kovo swamp. The area is quite large, and in the right times can produce a huge amount of interesting wildlife. The star species of the region are Schreeuwarend and Bastaardarend in a major presence, Kraanvogel, Steppekiekendief, Azuurmees, Visarend and Sperweruil.
But, before I start, I have to mention that any visit of the Dubna Swamplands section (which will be illustrated very clearly on the map) is forbidden from April until October to protect the large Kraanvogel population here. The Kraanvogel are best seen anyhow in the end of August- September, when flocks of up to 1,000 birds form in the Apsarevo fields. For this reason I will not mention what nests in the Dubna swamplands to reduce the temptation of birdwatchers to trespass there.
The Apsarevo Fields are a large expanse of fields with small woodlands to the north of Aibutovo and Kostenevo. These fields are the main focal point for Kraanvogel in early autumn, which form huge pre-migration flocks here and can be seen here rather reliably. In the spring it also serves as a large migration corridor for migrating geese, which gather in large flocks in the region. The eagles breed nearby and are somtimes seen soaring over the fields here, and Steppekiekendief may be encountered. The area also has a large Korhoen lek in the early spring, and brown bear sometimes visits the fields.
The Left Dubna Nature Reserve is located in woods on the opposite side of the Dubna to the main Dubna Swamplands, which start to the north-east of Okaemovo and extend along the river banks. 4 pairs of Kraanvogel and 2 pairs of Bastaardarend nest here and can all be seen. On the right bank, aside from the main reserve, there is also a small natural monument called 'Dubna Heronry'. It once had a colossal amount of heron nests, but the birds have largely dispersed. In their place, a Bastaardarend has built its nest on that side of the river too, whilst a pair of Kraanvogel frequents the swampy terrain in that region. The entire length of the river is a very good area for observing the rare Azuurmees.
The final area worthy of a mention, the Bat'kovo swamp, is the largest raised swamp in the region. Many interesting birds and other wildlife can be found here, however the best place to visit are the small and large Tugolyansky lakes, situated further along the road from Snyatinka. Visarend breeds on an obvious man-made platform here, and this is the only place in the oblast where Sperweruil breeds, too.
The Apsarevo Fields can be reached by public transport from Moscow. Take a train from Moscow-Savelovskaya to Taldom, and from there board a bus heading to Nikolo-Kropotki or Razoreno-Semenovskoe. Anywhere along the road between Kunilovo and Razoreno-Semenovskoe can be good for the Kraanvogel flocks, so disembark anywhere here. The bus is very frequent with a good timetable as well. From here explore the fields north of the road, but keep your distance from any Kraanvogel flocks you see.
The Left Dubna Nature Reserve can be reached by a bus going from Sergiev Posad to Samotovino. Sergiev Posad is within easy reach by train from Moscow. Take the bus from there down to Okaemovo and head north-east towards the river and forest. The village Nushpoly nearby also has a pair of nesting Ooievaar , and some Kraanvogel can be found in the surroundings in the autumn too.
The Bat'kovo Swamp is most difficult to reach, and is very difficult to get to without a car, unlike the other places. Drive down the R104 from Sergiev Posad to Verigino and turn right at the first fork. Park anywhere along the road as shown on the map and explore from there.
As already explained, any access to the Dubna Swamplands part as indicated both on the map and by the series of aggressive no trespassing signs is forbidden.
Pursuing flocks of geese and cranes is also forbidden. Please be aware of this as cranes in particular here have a tendency to fly 300m away from people.
Please follow any signage you encounter along the route. Finally, the area around Bat'kovo swamp is treacherous mire, and explore if possible only from trails around the two small lakes.
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