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A river valley high in the Pirin Mountains of Bulgaria, excellent for mountain and forest birds, also botanically rich. Easily accessible from Bansko resort.
A river valley high in the Pirin (Пирин) Mountains between Vihren (2914 m) and Todorin Vrah (2746 m), this site holds an excellent range of alpine and subalpine birds. Above the 2,300-2,400 m tree line, the grassy slopes have Szirti sas, Havasi csóka, Holló, Havasi szürkebegy, Havasi pityer, havasi fülespacsirta (the Balkan subspecies balcanica with extensive black on the throat, a likely future species split), Örvös rigó (alpine subspecies alpestris), Bajszos sármány and if you are lucky, Hajnalmadár.
The mixed conifer forests are important for fenyőszajkó (look for them collecting seed from Macedonian Pine [Pinus peuce] cones), Keresztcsoru (on my visit, two different forms, one small-billed, feeding on Norway Spruce [Picea abies] cones, the other large-billed and closely resembling nagy keresztcsőrű, feeding on Balkan endemic Bosnian Pine [Pinus heldreichii] cones), kormosfejű cinege (the alpine subspecies montanus), hamvas küllő, Fekete harkály, sárgafejű királyka, tüzesfejű királyka, Hegyi fakusz and Búbos cinege. The alpine chalets hold breeding Halvány sarlósfecske and szirtifecske, both of which feed widely over the valley, and Házi rozsdafarkú.
Lower down, the mixed woodland around Bansko holds közép fakopáncs (which can even be seen in parks and gardens in Bansko) and Rövidkarmú fakusz. Also look for passage migrants like Kerti geze and sisegő füzike. Open areas have Dolmányos varjú, Csicsörke, and Sövénysármány as well as Citromsármány. Overhead, Vörhenyes fecske feed together with more familiar Molnárfecske and Füsti fecske. The river holds Vízirigó and hegyi billegető along its full length.
The mountain resort of Bansko (Банско) has an excellent range of accomodation and can be reached easily by train or bus from the capital Sofia. From Bansko, the best option is to hire a taxi to either the Banderitsa Chalet (Хижа Бъндерица, 14 km) or Vihren Chalet (Хижа Вихрен, 16 km), where you can also stay to explore the area, or walk along the many footpaths back to Bansko.
My visit was in autumn, after most summer visitors had left. If there are other good species to be seen here in spring or summer, please leave a note below and I will add the details!
As well as the many birds, the site holds occasional Brown Bear and Wolf. It is botanically very rich, including the famous 'Байкушевата мура' ('Baikushev's pine'), an ancient Черна мура / Bosnian Pine (Pinus heldreichii) estimated to be over 1,300 years old, one of the oldest trees in the whole of Europe.
Thanks to Stivi Musievski for tips on additional birds that can be found here.
Gallery photo below of fenyőszajkó in the Banderitsa Valley by Amkramer, creative commons cc-by-4.0 license, from iNaturalist via Wikimedia Commons.
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