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These suburban fields may seem like noting special, but they can really surprise you.
This little known but still beautiful place is located south-east of the city center. It presents a great mixture of habitats, including field, meadow, forest, marsh and city habitats. The fields and pastures are connected to the rest of Belgrade through Veliki Mokri Lug and Kumodraž, so it can be easily accesed. It boasts a great deal of birds year-round, with there being both common birds like Fauvette à tête noire, Faucon crécerelle, Moineau friquet and Pic épeiche and birds that are less common and hard to find near urban areas such as Traquet motteux, Tarier des prés, Pic cendré, Pipit spioncelle, Gobemouche à collier, Guêpier d'Europe (be aware that many of the mentioned birds are not always there, you have to visit at the right time and have some luck).
The best time to visit is winter when many finch species are regular, including Bouvreuil pivoine, Gros-bec casse-noyaux, Pinson du Nord, Tarin des aulnes, Linotte mélodieuse and Chardonneret élégant, as well as many thrush species like Grive litorne, Grive mauvis, Merle noir, and Grive draine. Regular in winter are also Roitelet huppé, Roitelet triple-bandeau, Accenteur mouchet, Sarcelle d'hiver, Mésange noire, Troglodyte mignon, Pipit farlouse and many others. In winter, all of the water birds come to the ponds. Canard colvert can be seen from late autumn to may(can be spotted in flyovers year-round). Sarcelle d'hiver is here from late autumn but leaves before spring begins. Râle d'eau and Gallinule poule-d'eau are guaranteed from october to april, but moorhens can stay longer(maybe even present year-round). Chevalier culblanc and Chevalier guignette can be spotted in winter, and are not always there.
During spring migration, many different birds can be seen, including leaving trushes and finches, and incoming birds, like Cigogne noire, Cigogne blanche, Tarier des prés, Bergeronnette printanière, Huppe fasciée, Pouillot véloce, Alouette lulu, Rossignol philomèle, Hirondelle rustique, Martinet noir, Rougequeue à front blanc during the early and middle parts of migration, and Guêpier d'Europe, Pie-grièche écorcheur, Torcol fourmilier, Bruant proyer, Loriot d'Europe, Fauvette babillarde, Fauvette grisette Caille des blés and Petit-duc scops in later parts of migration.
Although spring and summer are a bit worse in variety than autumn and winter, they still offer great birding. Especially in this period should you be looking out for less common flyover birds in this area and terrain, including Martinet à ventre blanc, Faucon hobereau and Hirondelle de rivage. Milan noir, Bihoreau gris, Coucou gris, Aigrette garzette, Fauvette des jardins can and all have been spotted in this period.
Autumn migration marks the end of summer and the arrival and passage of many birds, like Pipit des arbres, Pouillot siffleur, Pie-grièche écorcheur , Rossignol philomèle and Gobemouche gris in great numbers, but you can also find Gobemouche noir and Pouillot fitis, Bondrée apivore is a common flyover here, and even Rossignol progné (a very rare bird in Serbia) has been spotted here for 2 years in a row.
All of these birds are here because of the diversity of this place, mentioned earlier. It is important to know what habitat to visit for the right type of bird. So for example, if you want to see Hibou moyen-duc and Chevêche d'Athéna you should search the streets and roofs and backyards of houses. If you want to see Pic vert and Loriot d'Europe, you should search the trees and tree lanes scattered all around the place, especially in Veliki Mokri Lug. Houses and backyards in Stari Vinogradi street regulary house Roitelet huppé, Bouvreuil pivoine, Chevêche d'Athéna, Petit-duc scops, Mésange noire, Loriot d'Europe, Rougequeue à front blanc and many others.
For some of the birds mentioned, you have to be lucky and search at the right time. Many birds have been sighted here that you will almost definetly not find because of their rarity for the region or habitat. Exampes include Busard cendré, Autour des palombes Faucon pèlerin, Martinet pâle, Rossignol progné, Busard pâle, Balbuzard pêcheur, Bruant mélanocéphale, Hypolaïs ictérine Rousserolle effarvatte, Rousserolle turdoïde, Rousserolle verderolle, Milan royal, Balbuzard pêcheur and others.
A stunning Belgrade city panorama stretching half the horizon can be seen at the slopes parallel to the Stari Vinogradi ('Old Vineyards') street. From there, the wast greeny hillside towards the Kumodraž suburbs can be observed, with numerous Pie bavarde, Corbeau freux, Corneille mantelée and occasional Épervier d'Europe or Faucon crécerelle. Small herds of goats and sheep are still grazing these greeny slopes, protecting the meadows from overgrowing with scrubs.
This location is also great for planespotting. Standing on the earlier mentioned viewpoint at the very entrance and the top of the hill, you can see most of the city, including a silhouette of the Nikola Tesla airport. Every plane landing or taking off from the east side of the airport will be very low in the sky, where you can get a great look at it because of the open terrain and panorama view.
In conclusion, take some time to visit this birding place before the constant urbanization conquers it fully. You will certainly not regret it.
Take an E-75 highway from Belgrade city center towards Niš, then take the 'Lasta' exit and follow the directions to the 'P' mark on the map in the Stari Vinogradi street. Alternatively, head towards the Kumodraž suburbs and park on the second 'P' mark at the south part of the map. Bus lines 20, 308 and 38 lead to Veliki Mokri Lug, and bus lanes 33, 25P, 39, lead to Kumodraž. Bus lane 312 cirlces Veliki Mokri Lug. Bus stops 'Stari Vinogradi' and 'Buljubašine vode' are located near the entrance to the fields from the side of Veliki Mokri Lug.
Conditions can be pretty muddy after the rain, thus prepare the boots if you plan to leave the paved roads.
If you plan on venturing deeper looking for birds, you should be wary about dogs. Even though they likely have an owner and rarely show up, they can group up and potentialy become aggresive and start barking. Means of defense (like pepper spray) are recommended.
The terrain is very uneven and sometimes hard to traverse and there are many grass roots(surprisingly tough) that can get your leg stuck, so you should be careful.
Always wear pants or trousers that cover your legs completely if you want to venture in deeper grass looking for birds, there are a lot of thorns and seeds that can cut you or get stuck on you.
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