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A river valley high in the Pirin Mountains of Bulgaria, excellent for mountain and forest birds, also botanically rich. Easily accessible from Bansko resort.
A river valley high in the Pirin (Пирин) Mountains between Vihren (2914 m) and Todorin Vrah (2746 m), this site holds an excellent range of alpine and subalpine birds. Above the 2,300-2,400 m tree line, the grassy slopes have Aigle royal, Chocard à bec jaune, Grand Corbeau, Accenteur alpin, Pipit spioncelle, Alouette haussecol (the Balkan subspecies balcanica with extensive black on the throat, a likely future species split), Merle à plastron (alpine subspecies alpestris), Bruant fou and if you are lucky, Tichodrome échelette.
The mixed conifer forests are important for Cassenoix moucheté (look for them collecting seed from Macedonian Pine [Pinus peuce] cones), Bec-croisé des sapins (on my visit, two different forms, one small-billed, feeding on Norway Spruce [Picea abies] cones, the other large-billed and closely resembling Bec-croisé perroquet, feeding on Balkan endemic Bosnian Pine [Pinus heldreichii] cones), Mésange boréale (the alpine subspecies montanus), Pic cendré, Pic noir, Roitelet huppé, Roitelet triple-bandeau, Grimpereau des bois and Mésange huppée. The alpine chalets hold breeding Martinet pâle and Hirondelle de rochers, both of which feed widely over the valley, and Rougequeue noir.
Lower down, the mixed woodland around Bansko holds Pic mar (which can even be seen in parks and gardens in Bansko) and Grimpereau des jardins. Also look for passage migrants like Hypolaïs ictérine and Pouillot siffleur. Open areas have Corneille mantelée, Serin cini, and Bruant zizi as well as Bruant jaune. Overhead, Hirondelle rousseline feed together with more familiar Hirondelle de fenêtre and Hirondelle rustique. The river holds Cincle plongeur and Bergeronnette des ruisseaux along its full length.
The mountain resort of Bansko (Банско) has an excellent range of accomodation and can be reached easily by train or bus from the capital Sofia. From Bansko, the best option is to hire a taxi to either the Banderitsa Chalet (Хижа Бъндерица, 14 km) or Vihren Chalet (Хижа Вихрен, 16 km), where you can also stay to explore the area, or walk along the many footpaths back to Bansko.
My visit was in autumn, after most summer visitors had left. If there are other good species to be seen here in spring or summer, please leave a note below and I will add the details!
As well as the many birds, the site holds occasional Brown Bear and Wolf. It is botanically very rich, including the famous 'Байкушевата мура' ('Baikushev's pine'), an ancient Черна мура / Bosnian Pine (Pinus heldreichii) estimated to be over 1,300 years old, one of the oldest trees in the whole of Europe.
Thanks to Stivi Musievski for tips on additional birds that can be found here.
Gallery photo below of Cassenoix moucheté in the Banderitsa Valley by Amkramer, creative commons cc-by-4.0 license, from iNaturalist via Wikimedia Commons.
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