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A river valley high in the Pirin Mountains of Bulgaria, excellent for mountain and forest birds, also botanically rich. Easily accessible from Bansko resort.
A river valley high in the Pirin (Пирин) Mountains between Vihren (2914 m) and Todorin Vrah (2746 m), this site holds an excellent range of alpine and subalpine birds. Above the 2,300-2,400 m tree line, the grassy slopes have Χρυσαετός, Κιτρινοκαλιακούδα, (Κοινός) Κόρακας, Χιονοψάλτης, (Ευρωπαϊκή) Νεροκελάδα, Χιονάδα (the Balkan subspecies balcanica with extensive black on the throat, a likely future species split), Χιονοκότσυφας (alpine subspecies alpestris), Βουνοτσίχλονο and if you are lucky, Τοιχοδρόμος.
The mixed conifer forests are important for Καρυοθραύστης (look for them collecting seed from Macedonian Pine [Pinus peuce] cones), (Κοινός) Σταυρομύτης (on my visit, two different forms, one small-billed, feeding on Norway Spruce [Picea abies] cones, the other large-billed and closely resembling Parrot Crossbill, feeding on Balkan endemic Bosnian Pine [Pinus heldreichii] cones), Βουνοπαπαδίτσα (the alpine subspecies montanus), Σταχτής Δρυοκολάπτης, Μαύρος Δρυοκολάπτης, Χρυσοβασιλίσκος, Πυροβασιλίσκος, Βουνοδεντροβάτης and Λοφιοπαπαδίτσα. The alpine chalets hold breeding Ωχροσταχτάρα and (Ευρωπαϊκό) Βραχοχελίδονο, both of which feed widely over the valley, and Καρβουνιάρης.
Lower down, the mixed woodland around Bansko holds Μεσαίος Δρυοκολάπτης (which can even be seen in parks and gardens in Bansko) and Καμποδεντροβάτης. Also look for passage migrants like Κιτρινοστριτσίδα and Δασοφυλλοσκόπος. Open areas have Hooded Crow, Σκαρθάκι, and Σιρλοτσίχλονο as well as Χρυσοτσίχλονο. Overhead, Δενδροχελίδονο feed together with more familiar Λευκοχελίδονο and σταβλοχελίδονο. The river holds (Ευρωπαϊκός) Νεροκότσυφας and Σταχτοσουσουράδα along its full length.
The mountain resort of Bansko (Банско) has an excellent range of accomodation and can be reached easily by train or bus from the capital Sofia. From Bansko, the best option is to hire a taxi to either the Banderitsa Chalet (Хижа Бъндерица, 14 km) or Vihren Chalet (Хижа Вихрен, 16 km), where you can also stay to explore the area, or walk along the many footpaths back to Bansko.
My visit was in autumn, after most summer visitors had left. If there are other good species to be seen here in spring or summer, please leave a note below and I will add the details!
As well as the many birds, the site holds occasional Brown Bear and Wolf. It is botanically very rich, including the famous 'Байкушевата мура' ('Baikushev's pine'), an ancient Черна мура / Bosnian Pine (Pinus heldreichii) estimated to be over 1,300 years old, one of the oldest trees in the whole of Europe.
Thanks to Stivi Musievski for tips on additional birds that can be found here.
Gallery photo below of Καρυοθραύστης in the Banderitsa Valley by Amkramer, creative commons cc-by-4.0 license, from iNaturalist via Wikimedia Commons.
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