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A river valley high in the Pirin Mountains of Bulgaria, excellent for mountain and forest birds, also botanically rich. Easily accessible from Bansko resort.
A river valley high in the Pirin (Пирин) Mountains between Vihren (2914 m) and Todorin Vrah (2746 m), this site holds an excellent range of alpine and subalpine birds. Above the 2,300-2,400 m tree line, the grassy slopes have orel skalní, kavče žlutozobé, krkavec velký, pěvuška podhorní, linduška horská, skřivan ouškatý (the Balkan subspecies balcanica with extensive black on the throat, a likely future species split), kos horský (alpine subspecies alpestris), strnad viničný and if you are lucky, zedníček skalní.
The mixed conifer forests are important for Ořešník kropenatý (look for them collecting seed from Macedonian Pine [Pinus peuce] cones), křivka obecná (on my visit, two different forms, one small-billed, feeding on Norway Spruce [Picea abies] cones, the other large-billed and closely resembling křivka velká, feeding on Balkan endemic Bosnian Pine [Pinus heldreichii] cones), sýkora lužní (the alpine subspecies montanus), žluna šedá, datel černý, králíček obecný, králíček ohnivý, šoupálek dlouhoprstý and sýkora parukářka. The alpine chalets hold breeding rorýs šedohnědý and břehule skalní, both of which feed widely over the valley, and rehek domácí.
Lower down, the mixed woodland around Bansko holds strakapoud prostřední (which can even be seen in parks and gardens in Bansko) and šoupálek krátkoprstý. Also look for passage migrants like sedmihlásek hajní and budníček lesní. Open areas have vrána šedá, zvonohlík zahradní, and strnad cvrčivý as well as strnad obecný. Overhead, vlaštovka skalní feed together with more familiar jiřička obecná and vlaštovka obecná. The river holds skorec vodní and konipas horský along its full length.
The mountain resort of Bansko (Банско) has an excellent range of accomodation and can be reached easily by train or bus from the capital Sofia. From Bansko, the best option is to hire a taxi to either the Banderitsa Chalet (Хижа Бъндерица, 14 km) or Vihren Chalet (Хижа Вихрен, 16 km), where you can also stay to explore the area, or walk along the many footpaths back to Bansko.
My visit was in autumn, after most summer visitors had left. If there are other good species to be seen here in spring or summer, please leave a note below and I will add the details!
As well as the many birds, the site holds occasional Brown Bear and Wolf. It is botanically very rich, including the famous 'Байкушевата мура' ('Baikushev's pine'), an ancient Черна мура / Bosnian Pine (Pinus heldreichii) estimated to be over 1,300 years old, one of the oldest trees in the whole of Europe.
Thanks to Stivi Musievski for tips on additional birds that can be found here.
Gallery photo below of Ořešník kropenatý in the Banderitsa Valley by Amkramer, creative commons cc-by-4.0 license, from iNaturalist via Wikimedia Commons.
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